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A cracking West Coast walk with mighty island views

Mallaig is at the end of the Rathad nan Eilean, or Road to the Isles, where a number of ferries sail from the harbour bound for the remote peninsula of Knoydart and the isles of Skye, Eigg, Muck, Canna and Rum.
Turn right from the railway station on to Station Road and walk through the town centre. The name Mallaig possibly derives from the Old Norse Muli, meaning “Headland Bay”, and its deep and sheltered harbour beside the Sound of Sleat has accounted for its development as a port. Not surprisingly, fishing has been the cornerstone of Mallaig’s growth since 1841 when Lord Lovat, the owner of North Morar Estate, parcelled up the farmstead of Mallaigvaig into a series of plots to attract people to settle here, with fishing being the main occupation.
With the arrival of the railway in 1901, and the steamers sailing for Skye and the Hebrides, Mallaig subsequently became a popular visitor destination.
Continue around Mallaig Harbour along East Bay, passing the line of waterside parking spaces at East Bay Car Park to reach a second car park by the same name.
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Opposite this, to the left of a whitewashed cottage, is a narrow path signposted “Circular Walk”. Take this to go through a gate, after which the path climbs steadily away from the town and up a hillside. As it swings left at a bench, views open out across Mallaig. Keep climbing gradually with steep slopes to the right to reach a fork.
Branch right and follow the path into a secluded glen, bounded on either side by steep embankments and scattered with wildflowers during spring and summer. This soon rises to a crossroads. Go left and take a path that climbs a short, steep slope. At the top is a stunning view across the Sound of Sleat to the Isle of Eigg’s distinctive high point, the Sgurr of Eigg, the spiky Rum Cuillin and the serrated outline of Skye’s Black Cuillin.
The more rounded range known as the Red Cuillin is also clearly visible. This is an ideal spot from which to watch the ferries and enjoy a picnic. Return to the main path and continue with a simple descent allowing for views of the Knoydart peninsula, its tiny community of Inverie dwarfed by several huge mountains, including Ladhar Bheinn and Luinne Bheinn.
Reaching a track beside a white cottage, turn left and follow this through Malaig Bheag (Little Mallaig) on to a narrow paved road and past a few cottages, with panoramic views across to Knoydart. At a junction, keep left on to Mallaig Vaig Road and follow this, with an outlook to Skye’s celebrated mountains, as it drops down to Mallaig’s rugged coast. It then runs alongside several houses to a junction. Turn right and sweep left on to East Bay. This is easily followed back into town where the option to sample some seafood in one of several excellent eateries is a fine way to end the walk.
Directions
Route: 3.25km; 1 hour; Map OS Explorer 398 Loch Morar & Mallaig
Start: Mallaig train station
Access: Trains from Fort William to Mallaig take about 80 minutes.
Walk: A short walk with mighty views, exploring Mallaig harbourside before diving into a secluded glen.
For more walks try Fort William and Lochaber: 40 Favourite Walks by Keith Fergus (£6.99; Pocket Mountains). Buy from timesbookshop.co.uk. Discount for Times+ members

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