Aruba travel guide

Aruba claims to have more sunny days than anywhere else in the Caribbean — so it’s only natural that most tourists come to flop on its breezy, bright-white beaches, naturally air-conditioned by trade winds. But go beyond the swaying divi divi trees and the strips of all-inclusives and you’ll find a wild side with dramatic landscapes that sets it apart from any other Caribbean island.
Inland, arid cacti-lined national parks unfold — best explored in a 4X4 — and you can venture into vast ancient caves, including one with an incredible heart-shaped roof. The island’s thriving art scene has injected personality into once-forgotten towns such as San Nicolas, whose walls are now decorated with murals by artists from around the world.
Exploring the island, 15 miles off the coast of Venezuela, is easy thanks to its size: it’s just 20 miles long and six miles wide; and its new, smooth roads make it a cinch to drive yourself around in a hire car. And, while it’s the smallest of the Dutch-administered ABC islands — made up of Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao — it’s got the biggest variety for tourists.
Twice-weekly flights depart from Gatwick Airport with British Airways and go via Antigua where — if you wish — you can hop off to combine the two islands on a twin-centre holiday. If not, stay onboard for another hour to land in Aruba.
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The two most popular stretches of sand are the adjacent Eagle and Palm beaches in Oranjestad; head northwest if you’re looking for something equally striking but significantly emptier. The island’s constant breeze makes it the perfect place to try out kiteboarding and windsurfing.
Aruba has one of the Caribbean’s top snorkelling scenes in terms of variety — perhaps second only to neighbouring Bonaire. Dip underwater to swim above kaleidoscopic coral, nibbled by leatherback turtles and iridescent parrotfish, or go for something quirkier; the island also has lots of shipwrecks and sunken aircraft that more experienced divers can glide through. The further out you go, the better variety of sea life you’ll find, so if you’re really into snorkelling you should book an organised boat tour. If you’re happy staying close to the shore then head to Boca Catalina early in the morning and you’ll have a good chance of sharing your first paddle with turtles. Renaissance Island, a ten-minute boat ride from Aruba, is home to the flamingos you’ll see in most brochures, and there’s a bar and a small strip of beach where they strut on the sand (day tickets are around £100).
The island’s capital, Oranjestad, feels high-end and the shiny shopfronts of Prada and Louis Vuitton are your signposts for tax-free designer shopping. If you want to take something more authentic home then grab a few bottles of aloe gel; it’s the island’s only export and is perfect as a cooling treatment for sunburn.
Less visited, but infinitely more interesting, is the mustard-yellow town of San Nicolas — a former oil refinery that’s been brightened by 60 murals painted by international artists; take a tour with Aruba Mural Tours to hear the stories behind each one. The island’s National Archaeological Museum, housed inside a striking Dutch colonial building, is set over two storeys and gives an insight into Aruba’s origin and culture via exhibits, workshops and lectures.
Hotels here are located in two main areas known as “low-rise” and “high-rise” and most are all-inclusive. Don’t be put off by the sound of the latter; they aren’t skyscraper-high and there’s only a clutch of them. At the budget end of the scale there’s a Holiday Inn, while Ritz-Carlton is where to book for luxury. Aruba Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino on Palm Beach is a good mid-range option with its cabana-studded adult-only pool and plenty of restaurants, among them Atardi, where you can tuck into surf and turf on the sand. Most of the all-inclusive resorts have a party vibe, so if you’re looking for something more private — and peaceful — try an Airbnb instead. They’re an increasingly popular option on the island and most can be found in Oranjestad.
Aruba may be small, but it’s got a big appetite and you’ll find over 400 restaurants to choose from. If you’re keen to try a local dish, order keshi yena — cheese stuffed with slow-cooked meat, nuts and capers. Whatever you order, add a splash of pika di papaya, the island’s hot sauce.
Zeerover, in the seaside town of Savaneta, is known for its incredible net-fresh seafood and is legendary among locals, while the most fun spot for breakfast is the Dutch Pancakehouse in Oranjestad where you can choose between a mix of 75 sweet and savoury toppings. If you’ve got a special occasion coming up, book a picnic on the beach with Picnic Aruba, which will provide flower-filled tables on the sand and baskets stuffed with your favourite food.
When the sun starts to dip, pull up a stool at one of the Latino bars on South Beach if you’re looking for something lively, or go for something more low-key at Lucy’s Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant on Wind Creek marina where you can sip some of the best frozen cocktails on the island. Make your first drink an Aruba Ariba shaken and stirred with banana rum.
Head out on a 4X4 to Arikok National Park, which covers a fifth of the island, to cruise through cactus-speckled landscapes and spot the likes of electric blue cododo lizards, cascabels — the world’s longest rattlesnakes — and the shoco, a tiny brown owl that is said to bring you good luck. You can also pull on your hiking boots to explore 45 miles of trails.
You’ll get the best weather — and highest prices — during peak season, which is from December to April. Visiting in May or June is a smarter move; you’ll dodge rainy season (November to January), and avoid the humid summers when the island warms up to 38C.
Aruba isn’t on the hurricane belt, so your chances of being affected by extreme weather are limited. Kitesurfing festivals add colour to the beach in May; the Aruba Art Fair takes place in September in San Nicolas, where you can buy prints and meet the artists behind them.
Lucy Perrin was a guest of British Airways (ba.com) who operate twice-weekly flights year round to Aruba from £513pp
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